Daily Grind

So I've told you about Patong, and about the smell, and I've noted my suspicions re all the smiling, but I have not yet mentioned to you about the little paradise on earth that Poodle M and I are carving out here in Kata Noi.

I wasn't exaggerating about the daily massage. This usually comes close to the end of the day, and for about $10 including tip - that's when we're going up town.

We have spent the last several days by waking up when we can't stay in bed any longer. It doesn't matter that there are birds, barking dogs, or construction going on, we get up when we feel like it, and that is usually after a good 9 hour sleep period.

We head off to our diner in the alley that none of the tourists dare enter. It's a ramshackle rig with a series of portable cookstoves. They have two plastic tables and some plastic chairs. Decor a la poverty. They know our order and giggle every time we say it. Kao Koog Ka Pi - Rice fried in shrimp paste, served with fried egg, pork, chilis, shredded green mango, shallots, cucumbers, and maybe pineapple. And a glass of fresh squeezed Shogun orange juice.

Today, I tasted salt in my juice and I bolted to the lady, "hey there's salt in my juice."

After some back and forth I realized she was saying, "yes, I know, I put some in it, that's what makes it taste so good! DUH!"

And she was right, but Poodle M didn't think so. His point to me was that I hated it when I thought it was a mistake, but came to love it when I found out it was deliberate. No matter, I came here to learn and so far, I have found that sometimes salt in the OJ is just what the Thai doctor ordered.

We log our expenses as we wait for our food, scratch our heads at how quickly the money is going, then realize it's all so cheap. We gather snacks for our long day at the beach, which is only a few steps from our door. I get coconut yogurt, Poodle M gets coconut wafers, then we seal the deal with water and some kind of fruit.

Cruise out to the beach with our towels, pay the $3 beach chair fee and we hang out all day. At some point, one of us orders up sandwiches and blended drinks. So far, my vote is for the ice blended young coconut in its own juice, served in its own shell. Poodle M seems to favor the pineapple shake.

We must remain vigilant about sunscreen. I got a bad sun burn two days ago just from being under the umbrella. Poodle M reads his books, I groove on the iPod. We carry on like this until late afternoon. Go in, wash off, get dinner and a massage.

We aren't spending lavishly, but this is hardly that shoestring budget, reggae on the river, dirty asshole dreadlock, back packing tour. Last night, during my foot massage, I came to realize that my life in the last few years may have been spent in preparation for this vacation. I have never treated myself this well, and I don't think I would have been able to do this a few years ago.

We can't stay here forever, and I wouldn't want to. The bathrooms suck, I'm a walking mosquito buffet, but the coconuts drinks are ice cold, the water is warm and the massages are almost free. Poodle M is a fantastic companion and stalwart navigator. All in all, this is one of the loveliest times I've ever had.